Just as had been the case yesterday, today the morning weather was perfect for yoga on the seashore. The surprise today was that another camper joined in.
- 5x Sun Salutation A
- 5x Sun Salutation B
- Standing postures
- Primary Series
- Conclusion
Again, after a breakfast from the life of leisure, I headed up into the main climbing valley with the plan to climb Forma Viva. I’d been wanting to climb Forma Viva for ages. The elaborate description in the guidebook says only “Mostly chimney climbing”. That is, in one short sentence, what had attracted me and repulsed me from the route for years. But now my usual climbing partner was fit and motivated, leaving me no excuses.
The route starts at the obvious ramp, about five meters to the right of “D. Brahm”, and is marked with a triangular nameplate attached to the rock at waist height. The route has new bolts and is mostly well-protected. We had a very full set of friends and a full set of nuts, which was more than necessary, but kept the leading comfortable. I don’t think we placed a single nut, but the friends came in handy.
- Pitch 1 (3): Follow the easy ramp up and right.
- Pitch 2 (3): Continue up the ramp. Here you’ll get you’re first itsy bitsy taste of chimney climbing. Important here is that the belay point at the top of the pitch is a big ring at the cave. I almost went left too soon, before seeing the ring.
- Pitch 3 (4b): Climb the crack just right of the belay ring which will lead you up and left, around the corner, past some loose blocks, to the next belay. It is also possible to climb up just left of the belay ring.
- Pitch 4 (5c): Although I had to hang once near the bottom of this pitch, I don’t think it is actually a 5c. It is probably more like 5a. Climb straight up the groove until you reach the first overhang. The belay is under the overhang just left of the crack you’ve been climbing. The first part of this pitch was a little wet.
- Pitch 5 (6a+): This is where the going gets tough. Climb out the right side of the first overhang. These are powerful, but well-protected moves on excellent rock. Absolutely perfect climbing. Then head up the steep crack in the corner. The crux of the pitch and of the route is to traverse right under the big roof. If you can’t free it, it is well bolted, so you can A0 it.
- Pitch 6 (5c): This was my lead again. It starts out in a cold, wet, and smooth corner. Then offers lay-backing and a bit of real chimney fun. Exhausting, challenging, but safe.
- Pitch 7 (5a): At this point one thinks one has finished the route. But as is the case on so many of the Anica Kuk classics, 5a isn’t just a give-away. On this pitch you’ll be feeling great at the start and then find a wide, steep, stem-gem with not much to offer for protection.
- Pitch 8 (5a): Now you’ll think it really must be over. But it isn’t. This is the last pitch of grooves. It is pretty long, and for its grade pretty demanding.
- Pitch 9 (4a): This pitch is very easy and leads up to a tree below a headwall. There is a belay ring at the foot of the headwall on the left side.
- Pitch 10 (4c?): Turn the corner of the headwall in one or two moves and then run up the easy slab until the rope runs out.
- Pitch 11 (3?): Climb up the arete then head left to find yourself in the golden arch.
Forma Viva ascends the groove that splits the face in the shade.
Looking up to admire Forma Viva.
A portrait of Forma Viva, which follows the obvious dark streak in the center of the photo.
Looking down the magnificent groove of Forma Viva on Anica Kuk in Velebit, Croatia.
Are you practicing? Are you training?
